The second collaboration of El Maniquí Vintage with the Perfumery Collection of Crivillé Period brings us to a firm of recognized prestige: Guerlain . Juan José Ruíz Crivillé , owner of the Crivillé collection, offers us in the following article interesting data and anecdotes about this mythical house, as well as a selection of images that evoke the magic of its more than 180 years of history.
The history of Guerlain: influence and prestige
Guerlain is undoubtedly one of the most important, influential and prestigious firms in the world of perfumery. It was founded by Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain , who began in the art of perfumery while conducting studies of medicine and chemistry in England. As early as 1828, she inaugurated her first boutique in Paris on the Rue de Rivoli, and in 1853 created Eau de Cologne Imperial for the Empress Eugenie de Montijo, wife of Napoleon III, who granted her the title of Official Perfumer of Her Imperial Majesty. The shape of the bottle is inspired by the column Vendôme 44 meters high , commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte and erected to commemorate the victory at the Battle of Austerlitz. The flask was decorated with a swarm of bees (the bees were the emblem of Napoleon III) and bathed by hand in fine gold.
At that time, he would also personalize fragrances for Queen Victoria of England, Queen Elizabeth II of Spain, Empress of Austria, Imperial Russian family and other houses ruling in Europe, granting titles of official suppliers.
In 1870, during the period of French industrialization, cosmetics began to be created and Guerlain launched its Sapoceti (perfumed soap).
The fragrance bottles are manufactured in different glass factories: Pochet & du Courval, Baccarrat, Saint-Goban, Nancy, Brosse, Rosmenil, Val-Saint Lambert and take different forms.The Balmoral bottles date from 1840 and La Gourde and L’etui carre of 1885.At the same time he created the emblematic Abeilles, and between 1,870 and 1,880 Carré, Baume essentiel de Violette and Patchouli.In 1892 Ovale was born.
In 1900 exoticism inspires the imagination and Guerlain creates Jicky, the first modern perfume in history when using synthetic oils for the first time as raw material.
In 1.904, Guerlain created Mouchoir de Monsieur and Violette de Madame and Aprés L’Ondee and L’Heure Bleue.
The twentieth century is accompanied by the first steps of female emancipation. Marie Curie is awarded the Nobel Prize in 1.911.
From 1900 the most used bottles are: Etrusque, Fleurí, Louis XVI, Escargot, Empire, Persian, Bouchon Quadrilobés, Elixir, Mauresque, Plat, Bouchon coeur and Bouchon fleurs and from 1.914 coinciding with the transfer to the new Maison en Avenue Des Champs-Elysées, make bottles practically for specific fragrances.
- Tortue for Parfum des Champs Elysees (1,914)
In 1919 and to announce the end of the First World War, he created the fragrance Mitsouko . Due to the shortage of flasks as a result of the war, it is marketed in a jar identical to L’Heure Bleue.
In 1920, Paris is the capital of the world and the makeup is reinvented.
- Lyre, for Guerlinade (1,921)
- Goutte, various Perfumes (1,923)
- Chauve-Souris, Shalimar (1,925)
Shalimar was an international success, conquering the American market. It was a tribute to the Hindu princess Mumtaz Mahal, to whom her husband dedicated the Taj Mahal.
He also created in 1925 La Poudre C’est Moi , symbol of luxury, audacity and sensuality.
- Lalique, Bouquet de Faunes (1,925)
- Djedi , Djedi (1,916)
- Tabatiere, Liu (1987)
- Guerlilas, Guerlilas (1,927)
- Post, Miscellaneous Perfume (1,931)
- Rayonnat, Vol de Nuit (1,933)
Vol de Nuit , was baptized with the same name as the book of Saint-Exupery.
- Brun Fumé, Candide Effuye and A Travers Champs (1,933)
- Tonnelet, Sous le Vents (1,934)
- Lanterne, Various Perfumes (1,935)
- Encrier, Vega
- Full cast and crew for Montre, Miscellaneous
- Noeud Papillon , Coque D’Or (1,937)
- Flacon de Guerre, reserved for export (1,938)
- Fleur de Feu , Fleur de Feu (1,948)
- Ode, Ode (1,955)
- Amphore, Various Perfumes (1,955)
In the strictly male context, in 1965 creates Habit Rouge , considered the first oriental type male fragrance.
In the 60’s the makeup combines pleasure with innovation and becomes a luxury object.
In the following years, the following fragrances are commercialized:
- 1.962 Chant D’Aromes
- 1.969 Chamade
- 1.973 Eau de Guerlain
- 1.975 Parure
- 1.980 Nahema
- 1.982 Gardens of Bagatelle
- 1,983 Derby (Another of his masculine fragrances)
- In 1984 she created Terracotta , makeup inspired by the desert lands and one of the great creations of makeup at the international level (imitated by all the big luxury brands).
- 1.988 Samsara
Guerlain was a family business until 1994, when it was acquired by the group LVMH (Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton), group that runs it today.
Image header: advertisement published in the magazine Black and White nº 290, dated 21 / XI / 1896.
For more information on the Perfumery Collection of Crivillé Season, we will re-arrange your website:our site.